Piz Bernina (4,049m) via the Biancograt ridge

Piz Bernina (4,049m) via the Biancograt ridge

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This tour departs from the Tschierva mountain hut, where alarm clocks are usually set for three in the morning. Initially, the trail leads, with several interruptions, through easy climbing sections, along the western slopes of the Piz Morteratsch to the upper basin of the Tschierva Glacier. Here the members of the party are roped together and crampons are mounted. Shortly afterwards, you find yourself at the bottom of the steep slope leading up to the Fuorcla Prievlus. Depending on the snow conditions, it may be easier to ascend via the ice- and fern-covered flank or, if this is not possible, via the steep path in the rock to the left. As the sun rises up above the horizon, you climb over the Prievlus rocks (difficulty grade II-III, moderately difficult to fairly difficult). After this climbing passage, you embark on the firn- and ice-covered ridge itself. If the snow conditions are good, you can ascend on a short rope; otherwise the rope lengths are secured with ice screws. After a short rest on the Piz Alv, you can tackle the last leg up to the Piz Bernina. The route takes you up to the lofty heights of the Berninascharte and over rocky towers to the highest point, where you are treated to magnificent views. The descent leads over the Spallagrat ridge to the Marco & Rosa mountain hut, which since being renovated in summer 2003 offers comfortable and restful accommodation at 3,609 metres above sea level.

The second day begins with a gentle ascent to the Bellavista terrace and onto the Fuorcla Bellavista. From here it is an easy climb via the Spinasgrat to the western peak of the Piz Palü. After a brief trek up through an area of firn, you soon reach the main peak. The descent is via the normal route back to the Diavolezza, whereby the narrow ridge after the main peak, the section down to the eastern shoulder and the passage through the Cambrena break-offs once again require your undivided attention.

Information on the levels of difficulty

ZS (fairly difficult)

Rock: belaying repeatedly necessary, longer and exposed climbing sections
Firn/glacier: quite steep slopes, belaying occasionally necessary, multiple crevasses, minor bergschrund
Varied and long!

The requirements indicated for these high-Alpine tours are recommended by the Bergsteigerschule Pontresina (Pontresina mountain climbing school) and based on the official classification of the Swiss Alpine Club (SAC).


2.5 days


Bergsteigerschule Pontresina GmbH
Via Maistra 163
7504 Pontresina
T +41 81 842 82 82
F +41 81 842 82 83

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