The Diavolezza Express route on the Piz Cambrena

The Diavolezza Express route on the Piz Cambrena

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Anyone who wants to approach the famous Bernina basin from the east can climb along a stretch of exciting path via the west flank of the Piz Cambrena. Since autumn 2009, M10-size climbing bolts signalise the new route, which aptly augurs its devilish-sounding name. The «Diavolezza Express» is secured along its the entire length, can be tackled in a day, and also offers Alpine professionals varied climbing training – in the summer there are rock surfaces with a good grip, and in cooler temperatures, challenging mixed climbing with ice and snow passages.


  • Level of difficulty: 12 SL in the 5+/6- range (M5+ in snow and ice)
  • From Diavolezza approx. 5-6 hours to
    the summit
  • In the case of emergency, climbers can rappel down, but the descent via the Arlas ridge is better; approx. 3 hours to Diavolezza
  • Material: 2 x 50m double rope, 10 express ice screws, 1 set of climbing chocks, smaller cams, crampons, possibly steep-ice tools


Route Cambrena Express

Route as a PDF-File


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